Wayzata Eatery, Minnesota Monthly: Best New Restaurants

11/01/07 10:40

SUBURBAN

Wayzata Eatery and Wine Bar

Diners in the western suburbs don’t need to venture to downtown Minneapolis for remarkable eating since the Wayzata Eatery opened in the Colonial Square shopping center last summer. The interior is far classier than the strip-mall surroundings might indicate: A raised platform of dark wood booths and a wall-length wine cabinet surround a cluster of granite-topped tables. And the vintage posters advertising leisure cruises on Lake Minnetonka seem particularly appropriate to Wayzata’s clientele, who likely dock their sailboats at the Tonka Bay Marina.

The restaurant functions as a test kitchen for Taher, a food-service management company based in Minnetonka, so while the menu offers something for traditionalists, like the beef tenderloin with reduced balsamic glaze, it also has plenty for more adventurous eaters, such as the crpe-wrapped crab cake served with broccolini, pea shoots, and carrot-ginger pure.

Some of the most successful items are those that fuse classic fare with creativity, such as the curried egg-salad sandwich and the manchego cheese bites with quince-paste dipping sauce-a gourmet take on fried cheese curds.

Best Meal: Start with an order of the manchego cheese bites, then balance out the grease with the healthier-but equally tasty-Thai wilted steak salad. Save room for a slice of the homemade red velvet cake. 1179-A E. Wayzata Blvd., Wayzata, 952-288-2866

MINNESOTA MONTHLY

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